2004 Manitou Swinger 3-Way SPV Sag Set Up. Publication Title: Publication. The manual is titled: “2004 Owner's Manual All Swinger Rear. Shocks Answer. Believe it or not, this article can save you from visiting the dentist. Nope, this isn’t about brushing your teeth (though a toothbrush is involved) – it’s about servicing your mountain bike fork. Servicing your mountain bike fork is important yet it’s often overlooked until it’s too late. Your MTB fork owner’s manual should state the service intervals and it’s a good idea to follow the recommendations to get the maximum life and performance out of your fork. Some forks really work the fluids hard which will cause the them to break down slowly meaning won’t be able to tell the difference from one day to the next. But if we place two forks side by side and one was run for 75+ hours and the other was fresh, you will definitely feel a difference. For this article I’ll be talking specifically about Manitou forks that utilize TPC and Absolute damping but many of these tips will be applicable no matter which fork you ride (just remember to check the owners guide that came with your fork for specifics). Continuing to run a fork past its service interval will cause excessive wear which can cost more to repair. Lets face it: in today’s economy, no on can afford to spend needlessly. As a licensed technician in Canada, I always tell my students and former customers: You can pay a little now. Or a lot later. Servicing your MTB fork yourself will save you a bunch of cash in the long run. This is actually a pretty simple job and believe it or not there is only one special tool that you may need depending on your fork. WARNING: Before attempting any work or opening the fork, make sure you release any pretension or air pressure. CAUTION: When re-assembling your fork, follow all manufacturer-recommended torque procedures. If you don’t own a torque wrench, now may be the time to invest. DO it rightFIX it right.DO not over tight! Who should attempt this task? If you’re not afraid to change your tires or make minor repairs, this job really isn’t that much harder. Highly compressed pc games 10 mb. All you have to remember is to take pictures of the deconstruction and follow your service guide. Changing the fork seals and fluid is actually easier than it sounds – just make sure you have a clean place to work and a solid work bench. Please remember to go over the list of necessary equipment before you start the job. Tools and materials required 20mm and 11mm socket or wrench 8, 6, 5, 4, 2mm Allen wrench or socket Soft face hammer 1/2 dowel Graduated cylinder or fluid measuring cup Graduated syringe Pick tool or fine flat screwdriver Small zip lock bag O-ring kits (order for your year fork) Dust wiper kit (the Manitou R7 uses a 30mm kit) Fork oil (5 wt is standard for the oil bath) Semi bath oil (5W40 synthetic) Prep M grease (synthetic) MTB Fork Removal So you got all your parts together (seals, fluids, tools) and are ready to go. The first thing is to remove your front wheel and front brake from the fork. You will need a 6 or 5 mm Allen socket or wrench to remove the brake completely from your fork (you may also need to cut the tie wrap that holds the brake line.) Once the wheel and brake are removed you can concentrate on removing the top cap and stem. Once again, most bolts will require either a 4, 5, or 6mm socket or wrench. Be sure to hold the fork when you are ready to take the stem off your bike; otherwise, the fork may fall on the ground when the stem separates from the steering tube. Once the bar and stem are free, let the fork hang carefully. Now remove the fork and make sure to grab the lower bearing and seal and place them with the other bolts that you removed thus far.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |